Nhau - Licorice Extract Glabridin Inoshanda Zvechokwadi Here?

I. Nhanganyaya

Indasitiri yekuchengetedza ganda yarumbidza hunyanzvi hwe "kucheneswa kweganda"Glabridin"(yakatorwa kubva kuGlycyrrhiza glabra) sezvo ichipfuura arbutin inotungamira mukucheneswa neka1164, ichiwana zita rekuti "goridhe rekucheneswa"! Asi zvinoshamisa zvechokwadi here sezvazvinonzwika? Inowana sei mhedzisiro inoshamisa kudaro?

Sezvo mwaka uchichinja uye migwagwa ichishongedzwa ne "makumbo asina kupfeka uye maoko asina kupfeka," nyaya huru pakati pevanoda runako, kunze kwekudzivirirwa nezuva, inoshanduka kuita kuchena kweganda.

Munyaya yekuchengetedza ganda, kune zvinhu zvakawanda zvinochenesa ganda, zvinosanganisira vhitamini C, niacinamide, arbutin, hydroquinone, kojic acid, tranexamic acid, glutathione, ferulic acid, phenethylresorcinol (377), nezvimwewo. Zvisinei, chinhu chinonzi "glabridin" chakwezva kufarira kwevateveri vazhinji, zvichiita kuti pave nekutsvaga kwakadzama kuti vaone kuti mukurumbira wayo uri kukura. Ngationgororei zvakadzama!

Kuburikidza nechinyorwa chino, chinangwa chedu ndechekutarisa zvinhu zvikuru zvinotevera:
(1) Glabridin yakabva kupi? Inoenderana sei ne "Glycyrrhiza glabra extract"?
(2) Sei "Glabridin" ichiremekedzwa se "goridhe rinochenesa"?
(3) Ndezvipi zvakanakira "Glabridin"?
(4) Glabridin inoita sei kuti ichene?
(5) Ko mushonga we licorice une simba zvechokwadi here sezvataurwa?
(6) Ndezvipi zvigadzirwa zvekuchengetedza ganda zvine Glabridin?

Nhamba 1 Kuburitsa Kwakatangira "Glabridin"

Glabridin, nhengo yemhuri yelicorice flavonoid, inobva pamuti unonzi "Glycyrrhiza glabra." Munyika yangu, kune mhando huru sere dzelicorice, dzine mhando nhatu dziri mu "Pharmacopoeia," dzinoti Ural licorice, licorice bulge, uye licorice glabra. Glycyrrhizin inowanikwa chete muGlycyrrhiza glabra, inoshanda sechikamu chikuru che isoflavone chirimwa.

Fomura yekugadzirwa kweglycyrrhizin
Pakutanga yakawanikwa nekambani yekuJapan MARUZEN uye yakatorwa kubva kuGlycyrrhiza glabra, glycyrrhizin inoshandiswa zvakanyanya sechinhu chinowedzera kuchena kweganda muJapan, Korea, uye mhando dzakasiyana dzekuchengetedza ganda dzepasi rose. Zvisinei, zvakakosha kuziva kuti chinhu chiri muzvigadzirwa zvekuchengetedza ganda zvatinoshandisa chingasave "glycyrrhizin" asi "Glycyrrhiza extract." Kunyange hazvo "Glycyrrhizin" iri chinhu chimwe chete, "Glycyrrhiza extract" inogona kusanganisira zvimwe zvinhu zvisati zvanyatso bviswa uye kucheneswa, zvichigona kushanda senzira yekushambadzira kusimbisa hunhu hwe "chisikigo" hwechigadzirwa.

Nhamba 2. Sei licorice ichinzi "Gold Whitener"?

Glycyrrhizin chinhu chisingawanzoonekwi uye chinonetsa kubvisa. Glycyrrhiza glabra haisi nyore kuwana yakawanda. Pamwe chete nekuoma kwemaitiro ekubvisa, magiramu asingasviki 100 anogona kuwanikwa kubva patani imwe yemadzinde matsva e licorice nemashizha. Kushomeka uku kunoita kuti ive imwe yezvinhu zvinodhura zvakanyanya muzvigadzirwa zvekuchengetedza ganda, zvakaenzana negoridhe. Mutengo we90% yezvinhu zvakachena zvechinhu ichi unokwira kusvika pamusoro pe200,000 yuan/kg.
Ndakashamisika, saka ndakashanyira webhusaiti yeAladdin kuti ndione kuti zvinhu zvakamira sei. Licorice yakachena (yakachena ≥99%) iri kutengeswa pamutengo wekushambadzira we780 yuan/20mg, yakaenzana ne39,000 yuan/g.
Nenguva isipi, ndakatanga kuremekedzwa nechinhu ichi chisina kunyanya kuipa. Kucheneswa kwacho kusina muganho kwakaita kuti chinzi "goridhe rinocheneswa" kana kuti "Golden Whitener".

Nhamba 3 Basa reGlabridin nderei?

Glabridin ine zvinhu zvakawanda zvehupenyu. Inoshanda sechinhu chinoshanda, chakachengeteka, uye chine hushamwari kune zvakatipoteredza pakubvisa mavanga uye mavanga. Pamusoro pezvo, ine simba rekurwisa mabhakitiriya, rinorwisa kuzvimba, rinorwisa antioxidant, rinorwisa kukwegura, uye rinorwisa ultraviolet. Kushanda kwayo kwakanaka mukubvisa mavanga, kupenya, uye mavanga kunotsigirwa neruzivo rwekuyedza, rwunoratidza kuti kushanda kweGlabridin mukubvisa mavanga kunopfuura kwevhitamini C kanopfuura 230, hydroquinone ka16, uye arbutin mumiririri anozivikanwa mukuchenesa nekukasira ka1164.

Nhamba 4 Chii chinonzi nzira yekuchenesesa glabridin?

Kana ganda rikasangana nemwaranzi ye ultraviolet, zvichikonzera kugadzirwa kwe free radicals, melanocytes dzinokurudzirwa kugadzira tyrosinase. Pasi pesimba reiyi enzyme, tyrosine iri muganda inogadzira melanin, zvichiita kuti ganda risvibe sezvo melanin ichitakurwa kubva pasi peganda kuenda ku stratum corneum.
Nheyo huru yechinhu chipi nechipi chinochenesa ndeyekupindira mukugadzirwa kwemelanin kana kutakurwa kwayo. Maitiro ekuchenesa aGlabridin anosanganisira zvinhu zvitatu zvinotevera:
(1) Kudzivisa kushanda kwetyrosinase
Glabridin inoratidza simba guru rekudzivirira tyrosinase, zvichipa mhedzisiro yakajeka uye yakakosha. Kufungidzira kwemakombiyuta kunoratidza kuti glabridin inogona kubatana zvakasimba nepakati petyrosinase kuburikidza nema hydrogen bonds, zvichidzivirira kupinda kwezvinhu zvakagadzirwa kuti melanin ibudiswe (tyrosine), nokudaro zvichidzivirira kugadzirwa kwemelanin. Maitiro aya, anozivikanwa semakwikwi ekudzivirira, akafanana nechiratidzo cherudo chine ushingi.

(2) Kudzivisa kugadzirwa kwemhando dzeokisijeni dzinoshanda (antioxidant)
Kusangana nemwaranzi ye ultraviolet kunokonzera kugadzirwa kwemhando dze reactive oxygen (free radicals), izvo zvinogona kukuvadza phospholipid membrane yeganda, zvichikonzera erythema uye pigmentation. Saka, mhando dze reactive oxygen dzinozivikanwa kuti dzinobatsira mu pigmentation yeganda, zvichisimbisa kukosha kwekudzivirira zuva mukuchengetedza ganda. Zvidzidzo zvekuyedza zvakaratidza kuti glabridin inoratidza kugona kwakafanana kwe free radicals kubvisa ganda ne superoxide dismutase (SOD), inoshanda se antioxidant. Izvi zvinobatsira kuderedza zvinhu zvinokonzera kuwedzera kwe tyrosinase activity.

(3) Kudzivirira kuzvimba
Mushure mekukuvadzwa kweganda nemwaranzi ye ultraviolet, kuoneka kwe erythema uye pigmentation zvinoperekedzwa nekuzvimba, zvichiwedzera kugadzirwa kwe melanin uye zvichiramba zvichikonzera kutenderera kunokuvadza. Hunhu hwaGlabridin hwekudzivirira kuzvimba hunogadzira nzvimbo yakanaka yekudzivirira kuumbwa kwe melanin kusvika pamwero wakati, ukuwo huchikurudzira kugadziriswa kweganda rakakuvara.

Kwete. 5 Glabridin Isimba Zvechokwadi Here?

Glabridin yave ichirumbidzwa sechinhu chinoshanda uye chisina njodzi pakubvisa mavanga, ichiratidza nzira yakanyatsojeka yekucheneswa kweganda uye kushanda kwayo kunoshamisa. Ruzivo rwekuyedza runoratidza kuti kushanda kwayo kwekucheneswa kweganda kunopfuura kwe "giant whitening" arbutin nekanopfuura chiuru (sezvakataurwa mudata rekuyedza).
Vaongorori vakaita muenzaniso wekuyedza mhuka vachishandisa zebrafish kuti vaongorore mhedzisiro yekudzivirira kweglabridin pamelanin, zvichiratidza kuenzanisa kwakakosha nekojic acid nebearberry.
Pamusoro pekuyedza mhuka, mhedzisiro yekiriniki inoratidzawo mhedzisiro inoshamisa yekuchena kweganda kweglabridin, nemigumisiro inoonekwa mukati memavhiki mana kusvika masere.
Kunyange hazvo kushanda kwechinhu ichi chekuchenesa ganda kuchinyatsooneka, kushandiswa kwacho hakuna kufanana nezvimwe zvinhu zvekuchenesa ganda. Mukufunga kwangu, chikonzero chikuru chiri pakuti "chinzvimbo chayo chegoridhe" muindasitiri iyi—chinodhura! Kunyange zvakadaro, mushure mekushandiswa kwezvigadzirwa zvekuchengetedza ganda zvakajairika, kune tsika iri kukura yevanhu vari kutsvaga zvigadzirwa zvine chinhu ichi che "goridhe".

Nhamba 6 Ndezvipi Zvigadzirwa Zvekuchengetedza Ganda Zvine Glabridin?

Chiziviso: Rondedzero inotevera, kwete kurudziro!
Glabridin chinhu chine simba chekuchengetedza ganda chinozivikanwa nehunyanzvi hwayo hwekupenya ganda. Chinowanikwa muzvigadzirwa zvakasiyana-siyana zvekuchengetedza ganda, zvinosanganisira serums, essences, lotions, uye masks. Zvisinei, zvimwe zvigadzirwa zvinogona kunge zvine Glabridin, zvakakosha kuziva kuti kuvapo kweGlabridin muzvigadzirwa zvekuchengetedza ganda kunogona kusiyana, uye zvinokurudzirwa kuti unyatsoongorora runyorwa rwezvinhu zvezvigadzirwa kuti uone kuti zvirimo.
(1) Mafuta emuviri eAlble Licorice Queen
Rondedzero yezvinhu zvinoshandiswa inoratidza "Glycyrrhiza glabra" sechinhu chechipiri (chinotevera mvura), pamwe chete neglycerin, sodium hyaluronate, squalane, ceramide, nezvimwe zvinhu zvinonyorovesa.
(2) Kugadzirisa Makeup yeVana yeFruit Licorice Light
Zvinhu zvikuru zvinosanganisira Glycyrrhiza glabra extract, hydrolyzed algae extract, arbutin, Polygonum cuspidatum root extract, Scutellaria baicalensis root extract, nezvimwewo.
(3) Kokoskin Snow Clock Essence Body Serum
Iine 5% nicotinamide, 377, uye glabridin sezvikamu zvikuru zvayo.
(4) Mask yeLicorice kumeso (Marudzi akasiyana-siyana)
Rudzi urwu rwezvigadzirwa runosiyana, zvimwe zvine huwandu hushoma uye zvinotengeswa se "glabragan" yemiti.
(5) Guyu Licorice Series

Nhamba 7 Kutambudzwa Kwemweya

(1) Glabridin iri muzvigadzirwa zvekuchengetedza ganda inotorwa kubva mu licorice zvechokwadi here?
Mubvunzo wekuti Glabridin muzvigadzirwa zvekuchengetedza ganda inobviswa zvechokwadi kubva ku licorice ndewechokwadi here. Maumbirwo emakemikoro e licorice extract, kunyanya glabridin, akasiyana, uye maitiro ekubvisa anogona kudhura. Izvi zvinomutsa mubvunzo wekuti zvingave zviri nani here kufunga nezvekugadzirwa kwemakemikari senzira imwe yekuwana glabridin. Kunyange zvazvo mamwe macompounds, akadai se artemisinin, achigona kuwanikwa kuburikidza nekugadzirwa kwese, zvinokwanisika kugadzira glabridin zvakare. Zvisinei, zvinorehwa nemutengo wekugadzirwa kwemakemikari zvichienzaniswa nekubvisa zvinofanira kufungwa nezvazvo. Pamusoro pezvo, panogona kunge paine kunetseka nezvekushandisa nemaune "Glycyrrhiza glabra extract" label mune runyorwa rwezvigadzirwa zvekuchengetedza ganda kuti pave nekukwezva kwezvigadzirwa zvechisikigo. Zvakakosha kuongorora mavambo uye nzira dzekugadzira zvezvigadzirwa zvekuchengetedza ganda kuti uve nechokwadi chekuti zviri pachena uye ndezvechokwadi.

(2) Ndingaisa licorice yakachena kwazvo pachiso changu here kuti ndione ganda rangu rakachena sechando?
Mhinduro yacho ndeyekuti kwete! Kunyange zvazvo glabridin ichichenesa, hunhu hwayo hunoderedza kushandiswa kwayo zvakananga. Glycyrrhizin hainyungudike mumvura, uye kugona kwayo kupinda mukati meganda hakuna kusimba. Kuiisa muzvigadzirwa zvekuchengetedza ganda kunoda kugadzirwa kwakasimba uye kugadzirira. Pasina kugadzirwa kwakakodzera, zvingave zvakaoma kuwana mhedzisiro inodiwa. Zvisinei, tsvakiridzo yesainzi yakatungamira mukugadzirwa kwemishonga yemudumbu muchimiro cheliposomes, zvichiwedzera kupinza nekushandisa glabridin kuburikidza neganda.

mareferensi:
[1] Pigmentation: dyschromia[M]. Thierry Passeron naJean-Paul Ortonne, 2010.
[2] J. Chen nevamwe / Spectrochimica Acta Chikamu A: Molecular and Biomolecular Spectroscopy 168 (2016) 111–117