Nhau - Licorice Extract Glabridin Inoshanda Zvechokwadi Here?

I. Nhanganyaya

Indasitiri yekuchengeta ganda yakarumbidza hunyanzvi hwekuchena "Glabridin" (yakatorwa kubva muGlycyrrhiza glabra) sezvainodarika mutungamiri anocheneruka arbutin nekanopfuura ka1164, ichiwana zita rekuti "kuchenesa goridhe"! Asi inoshamisa here sezvainonzwika? Inowana sei mhedzisiro inoshamisa zvakadaro?

Sezvo mwaka unochinja uye migwagwa inove yakashongedzwa nemamwe “makumbo asina maoko nemaoko asina maoko,” musoro wekurukurirano pakati pevanofarira runako, kunze kwokudzivirira zuva, unochinja nenzira isingadzivisiki kuva kuchena kweganda.

Munzvimbo yekuchengetwa kweganda, zviuru zvezviyo zvekuchena zvinowanda, zvinosanganisira vhitamini C, niacinamide, arbutin, hydroquinone, kojic acid, tranexamic acid, glutathione, ferulic acid, phenethylresorcinol (377), nezvimwe.Zvisinei, iyo inoshandiswa "glabridin" yakakonzera kufarira kwevazhinji vatevedzeri, zvichiita kuti kuongorora kwakadzama kufumure kukurumbira kwayo kuri kukura.Ngationgororei zvakadzama!

Kuburikidza nechinyorwa ichi, tinovavarira kugadzirisa zvinotevera zvakakosha:
(1) Chii chinonzi Glabridin?Inoenderana sei ne "Glycyrrhiza glabra extract"?
(2) Nei “Glabridin” ichiremekedzwa se“ndarama inochenesa”?
(3) Ndezvipi zvinobatsira zve "Glabridin"?
(4) Glabridin inobudirira sei pakuchena kwayo?
(5) Licorice ine simba zvechokwadi sezviri kutaurwa here?
(6) Ndezvipi zvigadzirwa zvekuchengetedza ganda zvineGlabridin?

Nha.1 Kuzarura Mavambo e "Glabridin"

Glabridin, nhengo yemhuri ye licorice flavonoid, inotorwa kubva kune chirimwa "Glycyrrhiza glabra."Munyika yangu, kune marudzi masere makuru e licorice, ane marudzi matatu akabatanidzwa mu "Pharmacopoeia," anoti Ural licorice, licorice bulge, uye licorice glabra.Glycyrrhizin inongowanikwa muGlycyrrhiza glabra, inoshanda seyokutanga isoflavone chikamu chechirimwa.

Iyo yemaitiro formula ye glycyrrhizin
Pakutanga yakawanikwa nekambani yeJapan MARUZEN uye yakatorwa kubva kuGlycyrrhiza glabra, glycyrrhizin inoshandiswa zvakanyanya sechinhu chinowedzera mukuchenesa ganda rekuchengetedza ganda muJapan, Korea, uye akasiyana epasi rose ekuchengetedza ganda brand.Nekudaro, zvakakosha kuti uzive kuti chinongedzo chakanyorwa muzvigadzirwa zvekuchengetedza ganda zvatinoshandisa zvinogona kunge zvisiri "glycyrrhizin" asi kuti "Glycyrrhiza extract."Nepo “Glycyrrhizin” iri chinhu chimwe chete, “Glycyrrhiza extract” inogona kusanganisira zvimwe zvinhu zvisina kunyatsotsaurwa uye kucheneswa, zvichikwanisa kushanda senzira yekushambadzira kusimbisa hunhu hwe “zvakasikwa”.

No.2 Sei licorice ichinzi “Gold Whitener”?

Glycyrrhizin chinhu chisingawanzo uye chinonetsa kubvisa.Glycyrrhiza glabra haisi nyore kuwanikwa mukuwanda.Yakasanganiswa nekuoma kwemaitiro ekubvisa, pasi pe100 gramu inogona kuwanikwa kubva kune 1 toni yeitsva licorice stems nemashizha.Kushaikwa uku kunotyaira kukosha kwayo, zvichiita kuti ive imwe yezvinhu zvinodhura zvakanyanya muzvigadzirwa zvekuchengetedza ganda, zvakafanana negoridhe.Mutengo we90% pure raw material wechinhu ichi unokwira kusvika pamusoro pe200,000 yuan/kg.
Ndakashamiswa, saka ndakashanyira webhusaiti yeAladdin kuti ndione ruzivo.Iyo analytical pure (kuchena ≥99%) licorice iri kupihwa pamutengo wekusimudzira we780 yuan/20mg, yakaenzana ne39,000 yuan/g.
Nechinguvana, ndakawana ruremekedzo rutsva nokuda kwechinhu ichi chisingashamisiri.Kuchena kwayo kusingaenzaniswi kwakaiwanira zita rekuti "kuchenesa goridhe" kana "Golden Whitener".

No.3 Chii Chinonzi Basa reGlabridin?

Glabridin inozvirumbidza zviuru zvezvinhu zvipenyu.Inoshanda sechinhu chinoshanda, chakachengeteka, uye chine hushamwari chezvakatipoteredza chekuchenesa uye kubvisa freckle.Uyezve, ine antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, anti-aging, uye anti-ultraviolet madhara.Kushanda kwayo kunoshamisa mukucheneruka, kupenya, uye kubvisa magwenga kunotsigirwa nedata rekuyedza, iro rinoratidza kuti kuchena kweGlabridin kunopfuura iyo yevhitamini C nekanopfuura ka230, hydroquinone neka16, uye ine mukurumbira yekuchena mumiriri arbutin neinoshamisa 1164. nguva.

No.4 Chii chinonzi whitening mechanism ye glabridin?

Kana ganda richinge richiratidzwa nemirairo ye ultraviolet, zvichikonzera kugadzirwa kwemahara radicals, melanocytes inokurudzirwa kubudisa tyrosinase.Pasi pesimba reiyo enzyme, tyrosine muganda inogadzira melanin, zvichiita kuti ganda risvibe sezvo melanin inotakurwa kubva ku basal layer ichienda kune stratum corneum.
Iyo yakakosha musimboti wechero chirungu chinongedzo ndeyekupindira mukuita kwekuumbwa kwe melanin kana kutakura.Glabridin's whitening mechanism inonyanya kusanganisa zvinhu zvitatu zvinotevera:
(1) Kudzivisa basa re tyrosinase
Glabridin inoratidzira simba rekudzivirira mhedzisiro pane tyrosinase chiitiko, ichipa mhedzisiro yakajeka uye yakakosha.Macomputer simulations anoratidza kuti glabridin inogona kusunga zvakasimba kune inoshanda nzvimbo ye tyrosinase kuburikidza nehydrogen bond, ichivharira zvine mutsindo kupinda kweiyo mbishi kugadzirwa kwe melanin (tyrosine), zvichizokanganisa kugadzirwa kwe melanin.Iyi nzira, inozivikanwa semakwikwi inhibition, yakafanana nechiratidzo cherudo chakashinga.

(2) Kudzvanyirira chizvarwa chezvinoita okisijeni mhando (antioxidant)
Kusangana nemwaranzi ye ultraviolet kunoita kuti pave nemhando yeokisijeni inoshanda (yemahara radicals), iyo inogona kukuvadza ganda phospholipid membrane, zvichikonzera erythema uye pigmentation.Nekudaro, mhando dzeokisijeni dzinoshanda dzinozivikanwa kuti dzinoita kuti ganda rive pigmentation, zvichisimbisa kukosha kwekudzivirira kwezuva mukuchengetedza ganda.Zvidzidzo zvekuyedza zvakaratidza kuti glabridin inoratidza zvakafanana mahara radical scavenging masimba kune superoxide dismutase (SOD), inoshanda se antioxidant.Izvi zvinoshanda kudzikisira zvinhu zvinokonzeresa kuwedzera tyrosinase chiitiko.

(3) Kudzivisa kuzvimba
Kutevera kukuvadzwa kweganda kubva mumwaranzi ye ultraviolet, kutaridzika kwe erythema uye pigmentation inoperekedzwa nekuzvimba, zvichiwedzera kuwedzera kugadzirwa kwe melanin uye kuenderera mberi kunokuvadza kutenderera.Glabridin's anti-inflammatory properties inogadzira nzvimbo yakanaka yekudzivisa kuumbwa kwe melanin kune imwe nhanho, uye ichikurudzira kugadziriswa kweganda rakakuvadzwa.

Nha. 5 Glabridin Ane Simba Zvechokwadi Here?

Glabridin yakarumbidzwa sechinhu chinoshanda uye chine hushamwari chezvakatipoteredza chekuchenesa uye kubvisa freckle, ichizvikudza yakanyatsotsanangurwa yekuchenesa nzira uye inoshamisa kushanda.Data yekuedza inoratidza kuti kuchena kwayo kunopfuura iyo ye "whitening giant" arbutin nekanopfuura chiuru (sekushumwa mune data rekuedza).
Vatsvakurudzi vakaita mhuka yekuedza modhi vachishandisa zebrafish kuongorora inhibitory mhedzisiro ye glabridin pa melanin, zvichiratidza kuenzanisa kwakakosha nekojic acid uye bearberry.
Pamusoro pekuedza kwemhuka, mhedzisiro yekiriniki inoratidzawo yakanakisa kuchena mhedzisiro ye glabridin, ine mhedzisiro inooneka inocherechedzwa mukati me4-8 mavhiki.
Kunyange zvazvo kushanda kwechinhu ichi chekuchenera kuchionekwa, kushandiswa kwayo hakuna kupararira sezvimwe zvinhu zvinochenesa.Sekuona kwangu, chikonzero chikuru chiri mu "chinzvimbo chegoridhe" muindasitiri - inodhura!Zvakadaro, zvichitevera kushandiswa kwezvakajairwa zvigadzirwa zvekuchengetedza ganda, kune maitiro ari kukura evanhu vari kutsvaga zvigadzirwa zvine ichi "goridhe" chengedzo.

No.6 Ndezvipi Zvigadzirwa zveSkincare zvine Glabridin?

Disclaimer: Inotevera rondedzero, kwete kurudziro!
Glabridin chinhu chine simba chekuchengetedza ganda chinozivikanwa nekupenya kwayo ganda.Inogona kuwanikwa mune dzakasiyana siyana zvigadzirwa zvekuchengetedza ganda, zvinosanganisira serums, essences, lotions, uye masks.Zvimwe zvigadzirwa zvinogona kunge zvine Glabridin, zvisinei, zvakakosha kuti uzive kuti kuvepo kweGlabridin muzvigadzirwa zvekuchengetedza ganda kunogona kusiyana, uye zvinokurudzirwa kunyatsoongorora rondedzero yezvinyorwa zvezvigadzirwa kuti uone kubatanidzwa kwayo.
(1) Aleble Licorice Queen Body Lotion
Rondedzero yezvinyorwa zvinonyanya kuratidza "Glycyrrhiza glabra" sechinhu chechipiri (inotevera mvura), pamwe neglycerin, sodium hyaluronate, squalane, ceramide, uye zvimwe zvinonyorovesa zvikamu.
(2) Vana Makeup Chiedza Chibereko Licorice Repair Essence Mvura
Zvishongedzo zvakakosha zvinosanganisira Glycyrrhiza glabra extract, hydrolyzed algae extract, arbutin, Polygonum cuspidatum root extract, Scutellaria baicalensis root extract, nezvimwe.
(3) Kokoskin Snow Clock Essence Body Serum
Inosanganisira 5% nicotinamide, 377, uye glabridin sezvikamu zvayo zvikuru.
(4) Licorice Facial Mask (Marudzi akasiyana)
Ichi chikamu chezvigadzirwa chinosiyana, chimwe chine mari shoma uye chinotengeswa se "glabragan" yemakwenzi.
(5) Guyu Licorice Series

No.7 Kurwadzisa Mweya

(1) Iyo Glabridin mune zvigadzirwa zve skincare zvakatorwa kubva mu licorice here?
Mubvunzo wekuti Glabridin mune zvigadzirwa zve skincare inotorwa kubva ku licorice ndeyechokwadi.Iyo kemikari chimiro che licorice inobvisa, kunyanya glabridin, yakasiyana, uye nzira yekubvisa inogona kudhura.Izvi zvinomutsa mubvunzo wekuti zvingave zvakanyanya kushanda kufunga nezvemakemikari synthesis seimwe nzira yekuwana glabridin.Nepo mamwe macommunication, akadai seartemisinin, achigona kuwanikwa kuburikidza neakazara synthesis, zvinokwanisika kugadzira glabridin zvakare.Zvisinei, zvinorehwa nemutengo wemakemikari synthesis zvichienzaniswa nekubvisa zvinofanira kufungwa.Pamusoro pezvo, panogona kuve nekunetsekana nezve kushandiswa nemaune kweiyo "Glycyrrhiza glabra extract" label mune skincare chigadzirwa chemukati zvinyorwa kugadzira echisikigo chekushambadzira kukwezva.Izvo zvakakosha kuti utarise kune kwakabva uye nzira dzekugadzira dze skincare zvinongedzo kuti ive nechokwadi chekujeka uye chokwadi.

2
Mhinduro ndeyokuti kwete!Nepo kuchena kwe glabridin kuchirumbidzwa, zvimiro zvayo zvinoganhurira kushanda kwayo kwakananga.Glycyrrhizin inenge isingasviki mumvura, uye kukwanisa kwayo kupinda mukati meganda reganda hakuna simba.Kuibatanidza muzvigadzirwa zvekuchengetedza ganda zvinoda kusimba kugadzirwa uye maitiro ekugadzirira.Pasina kuumbwa kwakakodzera, zvingave zvakaoma kuwana mhedzisiro yaunoda.Nekudaro, tsvakiridzo yesainzi yakatungamira mukugadzirwa kwegadziriro dzemusoro muchimiro che liposomes, kuwedzera kutorwa uye kushandiswa kwe glabridin kuburikidza neganda.

mareferensi:
[1] Pigmentation: dyschromia[M].Thierry Passeron naJean-Paul Ortonne, 2010.
[2] J. Chen et al./ Spectrochimica Acta Chikamu A: Molecular uye Biomolecular Spectroscopy 168 (2016) 111-117